The strategic location of Jaén Parador is visible from miles around. The approach is a rather grand experience in itself as you wind up the road flanked by pine trees and through the flag-flying entry gate to the Jaén Parador and castle. A stunningly located, hotel built in 1965 on the site of Phoenician and Moorish remains.
It´s almost a continuation of the Moorish castle at its side. One merge into the other creating the effect you´re staying in an ancient fortress with thick stone walls, heavy studded wooden doors, towers, dimly lit passageways and it´s focal point – the lofty vaulted ceiling of the bar.
The Parador is not the ideal location to visit Jaén city, which is a steep 3km away, so car or taxi would be needed, certainly to get back up. For a getaway and relax, taking in the changing light on the Sierra Morena and Sierra Mágina mountains or watch the city light up at dusk, the vistas will not disappoint. Enter into the reception lobby to a pleasant welcome and a glimpse of those amazing views that most room terraces have.
We´d visited the castle and cross, with a stop at the hotel bar many times, it´s a must-take-visitors-to see-destination not too far from home. For the first time, after a smooth and efficient check-in we headed into the ´Guests only´ part of the Parador, through the jail-like doors and into one of the ´towers´ to find our room.
Huge stone walls, turrets and small windows offer a feel of times gone by, the comfy bed, great pillows and big bathroom brings us into reality of modern day comfort. Arriving in the late afternoon the winter sunshine moved swiftly over the granite peaks, a window of rugged nature fulfilling its role of drama.
Our standard room, not huge but more than adequate. The terrace a bit too chilly to enjoy for long, and a little open to those next door but we weren´t going to be sitting out in January.
Rather surprisingly no drinking water was provided in the room. An absolute must in my book for a 4* star hotel and a disappointment. No tea/coffee making facilities were provided either, not a big deal for us but important for many travellers.
The bathroom spacious with double sink, a huge walk-in shower and a pleasing array of toiletries, and an admirable lack of plastic.
The Jaén Parador has a swimming pool with incredible views, it wasn´t open on in winter but I could visualise ´swimming in the air with fabulous views´ and being on the terrace on a warm summers´ evening. Perhaps a summer stay is needed for a different experience altogether.
After a pre-dinner drink in the bar we dined quite sedately in the monumental dining area with massive pointed stone arches and hefty chandeliers and wooden ceiling, very medieval. The service was good and the food was very well priced with local dishes and wines. Breakfast too was a hearty affair, a buffet to feed the hoards and again very good, but I felt over priced.
Don´t leave without a visit to the cross and the castle. Wander along the weaving stone path, passed the castle entrance, to the enormous monumental white cross, the Mirador de la Cruz, at the tip of the elongated Santa Catalina hill is a must. It´s a hard-to-beat spot with views over the city, mountains and olive groves. A magical moment to visit is as dusk falls and the city lights flicker on.
The panoramic views in all directions combined with its history makes this Parador a fascinating, unmissable location.
Fun Facts
Napoleon´s troops occupied and modified the Castle during the Peninsular War between 1810 and 1812. On leaving they blew up parts of it seriously damaging parts of the fortress.
In 1970 General Charles de Gaulle visited the Parador to study documentation on the war. He stayed in Room 231, which is now named after him, with the intention of staying two nights, which became a week as the peace and beauty gave him inspiration to start writing a new book.
See my Spanish Hotel Reviews page.
Last Review Cortijo de Marques in Granada province.
The Parador de Jaén on Booking dot com.